Drop the (Soda) Gun!

Posted on July 9, 2009
Filed Under Guest Blogger | 3 Comments

Meaghan Dorman is a freelance writer and bartender at NYC’s Raines Law Room.  She also blogs about spirits & cocktails at www.SpiritMeAway.com.

We all know bartenders can be fresh. Their witty, often-politically-incorrect banter is half the fun of enjoying cocktails out on the town. But this year at Tales, bartenders are encouraged to literally get fresh- as in juice and ingredients. On Tuesday afternoon, Dale DeGroff and Tony Abou-Ganim showed bartenders, managers and owners how to make their cocktail program all about fresh and natural ingredients. It takes planning and dedication, but trading in chemical-laden mixes for real fruits and vegetables will make a huge difference in the taste and esteem of your cocktails. It can also improve a bar’s bottom-line, which Dale showed us happened in the case of the Marriott Marquis when they priced out fresh fruit for juice versus bottled mixes.

Along with the establishments that Dale and Tony have worked with, there are a few bars across the country that have been working with fresh ingredients for years, and slowly spreading the word. I talked to two expert bartenders, from opposite sides of the country, about the  increasing trend of fresh juice programs.

Michael McIlroy, of NYC’s Milk & Honey, has noticed a big change since he came to New York four years ago, saying “It has come on leaps and bounds! It’s great to see that bartenders now know that a squeeze of fresh lime or lemon juice can make all the difference to a drink, whether its used in a cocktail or as simple as a fresh cut garnish for your gin & tonic. I think that now more owner/ operators get that their customers expect an element of ‘freshness’ in their drinks.” And while he takes a pride in knowing many follow M&H’s example he said “Bars such as Death & Co, Little Branch, Raines Law Room & Clover Club also fly the flag too. Plus don’t forget, we got our start thanks to Angel’s Share even before I knew what a Manhattan was!”

H. Joseph Ehrmann, of San Francisco’s Elixir, says San Francisco is a leader when it comes to fresh ingredients, though many places still scared to make the commitment. “I am seeing a big change in bars that are not necessarily doing “fancy cocktails”, many of them eschewing the term “mixology”, to simple fresh juices. This is tremendous to me. Even the most geeked out of mixologists that I know like to go to a dive for a shot and a beer. And if they see fresh citrus and a hand juicer, it’s good to know you can get a real Collins, a Screwdriver with real orange juice or a Caipirinha with real lime. All it takes is for a bar manager who hasn’t really had a fresh margarita to do it once, realize how easy it is, and the change is made.” H also hopes that bars embracing fresh ingredients will then step up to all-organic produce, saying “The organic move is one I firmly believe in. The fact that organic products have more stringent  production requirements that lead to higher quality products. You can upcharge for that. People pay it, happily.”

So for those that haven’t yet, its time to take Dale and Tony’s seminar title to heart- Stop Talking and GO FRESH!