The Flowing Bowl
Posted on May 20, 2008
Filed Under Ted Munat | Leave a Comment
Charles & Ted Munat are Seattle-based brothers and ardent fans of good spirits. They blog at Le Mixeur.
Twenty years ago was a dark era indeed for cocktails in America.
Appreciation for both the craft of the cocktail and the theater of bartending had all but fallen by the wayside. Why, even I often found myself quenching my thirst in such unseemly ways as taking slugs of peach schnapps directly from the bottle while lingering in some dark cemetery with friends.
Although come to think of it, that probably had more to do with the fact that I was 16 than it being “a dark era indeed for cocktails in America.”
At any rate, that dark era has certainly been transcended in the decades since (and I could neither name one brand of peach schnapps nor tell you where the closest cemetery to my home is…thank you very much).
This new dawn of cocktail appreciation is most clearly evidenced in the existence of Tales of the Cocktail. Surely Tales would not be growing yearly in scope, prestige, fame, and volume were there not a groundswell of interest from across the nation and other parts of the globe.
Still lingering in the shadows, however, is the cocktail’s big cousin, the punch bowl. The Flowing Bowl, led by Allen Katz and David Wondrich, aims to shine a little light on this other lost art, whose history is rich with now mostly-forgotten tradition, rules, and techniques.
I spoke with David about the presentation, and he expressed excitement over this opportunity to practice one of his favorite pastimes: evangelizing on behalf of the punch bowl. Punch, he explained “is often thought of as something you mix up in garbage cans at a fraternity party.” However, he said, punches were in fact the central and most honored form of spirit-imbibing for over 200 years.
(Incidentally, I was pleased to be able to expand upon Mr. Wondrich’s punch horizons by sharing with him the technique of making party punches in a washing machine. The agitation of the wash cycle creates an effect somewhere between shaken and stirred, and the soap residue adds almost Parfait Amour-like notes to whatever punch you prepare. The key is to not allow the machine to reach spin cycle, because, well, at that point all your punch is drained and channeled to a nearby sewer.)
David explained that in addition to its culinary merit as “an elegant and potent drink,” punch provides the obvious social advantages of not having to individually make your guests’ drinks all night when entertaining. The punch-maker is free to circulate amongst the crowd, soaking up all the accolades that come with being such a sophisticated and debonair host. Go ahead and bathe in that glory. You’ve earned it.
While the specifics of the Flowing Bowl presentation are yet to be finalized, David says he will likely go over the history of punch dating back to its pre-American origins, and Allen will talk about how punch is making a comeback today. They will of course go over the traditional techniques for preparing and serving punches, and have a bowl (or bowls?) for guests to taste in the back of the room (though the presenters reserve the right to change their minds and place the bowl to the sides of the room or even in front).
For those interested in learning more about the art of punch, there are several books. Some of these actually share the title The Flowing Bowl, most notably the 1897 incarnation by Edward Spencer, which was republished recently. Coincidentally, this book is currently being offered in a bundled deal at Amazon.com along with David Wondrich’s Imbibe!
Speaking of which, the lexicon of noteworthy written works on punch will be expanded upon in the not-too-distant future, as David himself will be releasing a book on the subject. He is currently working on this, and says he is envisioning it as a sequel to Imbibe! It’s working title is Punch, or the Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl.
In need of more instant gratification? Why not undertake a little homework assignment to prepare yourself for Tales of the Cocktail? Here is a recipe for the Rocky Mountain Punch, which is from “Professor” Jerry Thomas’ How to Mix Drinks, published in 1862. This recipe was reprinted last November in a nice article on David in the New York Daily News. Make this for your next gathering, and stride into the Flowing Bowl presentation with all the confidence of a grizzled punch bowl veteran.
Rocky Mountain Punch
Serves 20
One punch bowl
5 bottles champagne (or sparkling wine)
1 quart Jamaica rum
1 pint maraschino liqueur
6 lemons, sliced
Superfine sugar to taste
Freeze a gallon bowl of water overnight to make one giant ice cube. The day of the party steep lemon slices in the combined rum and maraschino for four hours before assembly. Just before the party, mix all ingredients in a punch bowl. The amount of sugar needed depends on the dryness of the champagne and the sweetness of the maraschino liqueur. Begin with two ounces and adjust. Add the ice block and serve in punch cups.
I was fortunate enough to try this punch, made under the oversight of Mr. Wondrich himself, when he hosted a Jerry Thomas seminar at the Teardrop Lounge in Portland last March. After one sip, I swore I could see Marilyn Monroe in a green dress performing her Rockie Mountain saloon act in Otto Preminger’s River of no Return. It turned out to be Paul Clarke, but that does not diminish the powerful sensory impact this concoction bestows upon its imbiber.
The Flowing Bowl, presented by Batavia Arrack van Oosten and Hine Cognac, will take place on Thursday, July 17th, from 4:30 – 6:00pm, at the Hotel Monteleone. Tickets can be purchased here.
